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Activities / Pashmina / Pashmina Twisted Fringe

Pashmina Twisted Fringe

Hand-Twisted Fringe: A Pashmina Finishing Technique on a Scarf

Level
Beginner
Duration
45 - 90 mins
Budget
₹304 – ₹473
Age
10+
State
Jammu & Kashmir

Materials

  • Plain woollen scarf or muffler, no fringe
  • Wool yarn in a matching colour
  • Crochet hook, 3 to 4 mm
  • Sharp scissors
  • Ruler and a book or cardboard 15 cm wide
  • Steam iron or kettle (adult help)

Steps

  1. Choose a plain scarf and match the yarn to its colour
    A twisted fringe is a classic finish on Kashmiri pashmina shawls. Here you will add one to a plain woollen scarf or muffler with no fringe on one end. Real pashmina is very costly, so practise on a wool or wool-blend scarf. Hold the yarn against the scarf in daylight and pick the closest colour. Lay the scarf flat and measure the width of the end you will fringe, for example 20 cm (8 in).
  2. Cut one 30 cm yarn length for every cm of scarf width
    Wrap the yarn around a book or piece of cardboard that is 15 cm (6 in) wide, once for every cm of scarf width, so 20 wraps for a 20 cm end. Cut through the loops along one edge. This gives you 20 equal lengths of 30 cm (12 in). Common mistake: cutting each length by eye, which gives an uneven fringe that is hard to fix later.
    Tip: Wrap loosely and keep the wraps side by side so the cut ends line up.
  3. Attach each length with a lark's head knot using a crochet hook
    Fold one length in half. Push the crochet hook from the front to the back through the scarf edge, about 5 mm in from the end. Hook the folded loop and pull it halfway through to the front. Pass the two loose tails through the loop and pull them to tighten. This is a lark's head knot. Make the first one 1 cm in from the scarf's side edge.
  4. Repeat the knot along the whole end, 1 cm apart
    Attach the rest of the lengths in a row, 1 cm (3/8 in) apart, across the end of the scarf. Pull each knot snug but not so hard that the scarf edge puckers. When you finish, you have 20 loops, which means 40 hanging strands, and the last knot should be 1 cm from the other side edge. Flatten the fringe with your hand and check the spacing.
  5. Twist each group of 4 strands in one direction until tight
    Take 4 neighbouring strands, which are two lark's head knots. Split them into two halves of 2 strands. Hold the top of the group near the scarf edge with one hand. With the other hand, twist each half between thumb and forefinger in the same direction (clockwise) until it is tight and starts to kink. Keep your hold on both halves so they cannot untwist.
  6. Let the two twisted halves wrap around each other
    Bring the two twisted halves together at the bottom and let go of the pair gently. They will twist around each other in the opposite direction and form a neat rope. Pinch the bottom and tie an overhand knot about 4 cm (1.5 in) from the ends to lock the twist in place. Common mistake: letting go of one half before the other, which loses the twist.
  7. Twist the rest of the groups and trim the ends level
    Repeat the twist for each group of 4 strands: you will make 10 twisted ropes. When all are done, lay the fringe on a table and trim the ends below the knots to 3 cm (1.25 in), using a ruler and sharp scissors, so the whole fringe has an even edge. Shake the fringe out to check it hangs straight.
  8. Set the twists with a little steam, with an adult
    Lay the scarf flat on a towel with the fringe spread out. An adult should hold a steam iron or kettle spout about 5 cm (2 in) above the fringe for about 10 seconds, without touching it, so the twists set. Let the wool cool for 5 minutes. Do not press the iron on the wool, because it can flatten the twist.
  9. Tidy up and keep the leftover yarn
    Pick up any loose yarn clippings from the floor so nobody trips on them. Roll the leftover yarn into a ball and store it with the crochet hook in a small bag. Hang the scarf up to check that both the ends hang evenly. To clean it, wash by hand in cool water and dry flat, because hot water and wringing can untwist the fringe.

Sustainability

Medium - gives an old plain scarf new life instead of discarding it. Inspired-by exercise: real shawl fringes are twisted from the weaving yarn itself

Safety

Minimal; scissors are sharp; tidy up loose thread to avoid tripping hazards