Activities / Phulkari / Phulkari Cushion Cover
Phulkari Cushion Cover
Phulkari Cushion Cover: A Darned Medallion on Plain Cotton
- Level
- Intermediate
- Duration
- 10 - 15 hours (over a few weeks)
- Budget
- ₹487 – ₹1,332
- Age
- 15+
- State
- Punjab
- Craft
- Phulkari
Materials
- Aida cloth, 14 count, white or cream
- Cotton embroidery floss in 4 or 5 colours
- Blunt tapestry needles, size 22
- Embroidery hoop, 20 cm (8 in)
- Plain cotton cushion cover, about 40 cm (16 in)
- Water-erasable fabric marker
- Metal thimble
- Masking tape, scissors, ruler, pencil and paper
- Sharp sewing needle, matching thread, pins
- Iron and a folded towel (adult help)
Steps
- Understand the plan and gather everything
You will stitch a 16 cm (6.3 in) phulkari medallion on a panel of Aida cloth, then sew the panel onto a plain cushion cover. This is far easier than stitching on the cover itself, because Aida has squares you can count. Lay out the Aida, 4 or 5 colours of floss, a blunt tapestry needle, a hoop, a fabric pen, a ruler, scissors, a thimble and the cushion cover. Expect 8 to 12 hours spread over several days. - Cut a 22 cm Aida square and tape its edges
Cut a 22 x 22 cm (8.7 in) square of 14-count Aida. Aida frays quickly, so stick masking tape around all four edges, half on the cloth and half hanging off, then fold the tape over. This keeps the edges neat while you work. Common mistake: skipping this step. The frayed threads then tangle with your floss and make the stitching frustrating. - Mark a 16 cm square and a 4 x 4 grid of 4 cm blocks
Find the centre by folding the square in quarters. With the ruler and fabric pen, draw a 16 x 16 cm square around the centre. Divide it into 16 blocks of 4 x 4 cm, by drawing 3 lines across and 3 lines down. Each block is about 22 Aida squares wide. Put the cloth in a 20 cm (8 in) hoop with the grid in the middle, pulling it taut.
Tip: Stiff Aida can be worked without a hoop, but a hoop keeps the stitches even and your hand freer. - Choose your colours and plan the chessboard on paper
Pick 4 colours that look good together, for example red, yellow, green and pink. Draw a 4 x 4 grid on paper and colour in each block with a pencil, with no two blocks of the same colour touching on a side. Add an arrow in each block: a horizontal arrow means horizontal stitches, a vertical arrow means vertical stitches, and alternate them. This is your map for the next steps. - Thread 3 strands and sew the first row of the centre block
Cut 50 cm (20 in) of floss, separate 3 of the 6 strands, put them back together and thread the blunt needle. Do not knot. Bring the needle up at the top left of a centre block, leaving a 3 cm tail at the back. Go down 4 squares along the row, then come up 1 square beyond, so the stitch lies on the front over 4 squares. Repeat to the end of the row.
Tip: Keep the floss flat and untwisted so it shines. Pull each stitch snug, but not tight. - Fill the first block, offsetting each row by 2 squares
Move down one row and repeat, starting each new row 2 squares further along than the row above, so the tiny back stitches form a brick pattern and the long stitches cover the cloth completely. Pack the rows close together. A 4 cm block takes about 22 rows and 30 to 45 minutes. When it is full, no white Aida should show. Common mistake: leaving gaps, which look like holes later. - Fill the other three centre blocks in alternating directions
Fill the four centre blocks first, as your map shows. In a neighbouring block, stitch vertically (down 4 squares, up 1 square beyond, column by column) in the next colour. The change of direction makes light catch the floss differently, which gives phulkari its glow. To end a thread, weave its tail under 3 or 4 stitches on the back and cut it close. - Fill the 12 outer blocks following your map
Work outward, block by block, keeping the colours and directions of your plan. Do one or two blocks per sitting. Stop for a break every hour and look away from the cloth for a minute. Check the back now and then: it should be tidy, with only tiny stitches. Use a thimble on your pushing finger if it gets sore. Common mistake: pulling stitches too tight, which puckers the Aida.
Tip: Keep a spare skein of the same colour in case one runs low. Dye lots can differ. - Stitch a one-square border around the medallion
Outside the 16 cm square, leave one empty row of squares and then stitch a border one square wide in a contrasting colour. Use the same darning stitch, going horizontally along the top and bottom and vertically along the sides. Turn each corner by changing the direction. The border frames the medallion and makes the colours look richer. - Wash out the pen, press and trim the panel
Take the work out of the hoop and peel off the masking tape. Dab the pen lines with a damp cloth until they vanish and let it dry. Place the panel face down on a folded towel and press with a warm iron (adult help), without pushing on the stitches. Trim the cloth 1.5 cm outside the border, fold the edges under by 1 cm and press them flat. - Sew the medallion onto the cushion cover and finish
Lay the cover flat and centre the panel on the front. Pin the four corners. Using a sharp needle and thread that matches the Aida, sew around the edge with small hem stitches about 3 mm apart, going through the front layer of the cover only. Remove the pins, put the cushion inside, and trim all loose threads. Keep leftover floss wrapped on cardboard so it does not tangle.
Sustainability
Medium - refreshes an old cushion cover rather than buying a new one
Safety
Needle pricks and eye strain from long sessions; use a thimble, stitch in daylight and stop for a break each hour